A Little Bday Getaway: 48 Hours in CPH
Hi friends,
The arrival of cherry blossoms, tulips, and peonies are the first signs of spring. In my childhood city, a whole hillside between a playground and neighborhood homes, are covered with bright pink and violet blooms. My mom would take us there as kids to take pictures.
For me, the arrival of springtime blossoms is also a sign of the approaching date of my birthday, April 24th.
But unlike other years where I’d traditionally make big plans to celebrate, this year felt heavy and full of sorrow. I knew this feeling would be unavoidable, natural even, so I made plans to spend my birthday weekend in Copenhagen to be with my Danish friend, Louise, who is familiar with the feelings that come with the tragedy of sudden loss.
Last year, I visited CPH as a real tourist in a mission. I saw New Harbor, went to the Design Museum, and swam in the harbor. This time, I wasn’t coming as a tourist firstly, rather I went as someone looking to find solace, peace, and familiarity.
I went straight from work to CDG airport with my carry on suitcase, Hershel bag, and my passport. The whole weekend was a lovely surprise lovingly planned and organized by Louise. Here’s what we managed to do in a single weekend in CPH:
Saturday:
Danish brunch at home consisting of traditional Danish buns, cheese, ham, bacon, butter, and a homemade layer cake. Complete with Danish flags, per local tradition for one’s birthday.
A windy walk around the city center with a quick pop into the GANNI outlet store and a few chic second-hand shops.
Dinner at Restaurant Bazaar, a Mediterranean restaurant with a cozy, modern vibe.
Drinks and mini shuffleboard at a local pub.
A night out at Culture Box, a Berlin style nightclub complete with a “no photo policy” and security to minimize unwanted touching for women. Two techno/house DJ’s playing simultaneously with plenty of space to dance. I’m not a nightclub girly by any means, but you could find me here.
Sunday:
Between the travel and lack of sleep the past few days, my exhaustion finally caught up to me and I slept most of the day. By the time I got myself together, we only had less than an hour at Louise’s final surprise: a visit to the Louisiana Modern Art Museum. It’s been on my list ever since my first visit to CPH. It’s a little bit outside the city so accessing it is better by car, but it is possible by public transport.
Even though out visit was quick, I felt very moved by the design of the museum itself. Nestled by the water, the museum overlooks the water with sculptures both inside and outside of the museum that are viewable from the glass hallways. The white brick walls juxtaposed with the wooden beams made the museum feel homey and inviting with a clear intention to feel indoor-outdoor.
One of the current expositions features work by Jean-Michel Basquiat, a contemporary artist whose colorful drawings of heads depict a spectrum of emotions beyond words. My favorite room was the Giacometti Gallery in the North Wing of the museum. Overlooking a serene lake, the world feels like it stands still, almost floating in time against the surreal looking sculptures. It felt like standing in a painting.
Next time, I’d love to see more of the sculptures outside of the museum and explore the other building that I missed. Even though it was a short visit, it was such a lovely experience and I’m grateful for the chance to discover something new.
Between the ethos of Danish design, ritual of “hygge”, and of course my friend’s generous hospitality, there’s always something pulling me back to Copenhagen. From my brief time there, I’ve learned that Danish people love to live well and they also love to do things well. They’ve worked hard to build a reality where it’s possible to have both and it’s something that I’m constantly fascinated by.
As for celebrating my birthday back in Paris, I do plan I hosting a small springtime fête at my place. If anything, I love to use my birthday as an excuse to gather all my friends togther in one place. Stay tuned xx
Thanks for reading ~
Bisous,
Kiana