72 Hours in Marseille

Written By Kiana Sakamoto

On Hiatus: A Mini Travel Series

Part 1: Marseille

Hi friends,

Ever since I moved to Paris, French people have always told me, “Paris is not France. You need to explore outside France to really understand and appreciate the country.” Of course, to a certain extent, I could understand as someone from LA, I could make the same statement that LA is not America. With France being smaller, it’s a steeper comparison but nevertheless, I always dreamed about having the chance to really explore France.

It’s true that the South of France is internationally coveted as the destination for the rich and famous. There’s a reason why the Côte d'Azur has a certain ring to it and exudes luxury. So for many years, my dream has always been to visit the South of France. Not just because of the glamorous lifestyle it embodies but also because so many French people I met also rave about it. But between financing my own masters, finding a job, and securing a visa, my budget simply couldn’t afford to just disappear to the South of France. For years, I always prioritized my stability, my visa, and vowed to save my PTO to return to LA to spend time with my family back home. Though the South of France is not very far, train tickets within France during peak summer season can cost the same as a flight to London or Italy. It may be relatively close, but the South of France always felt slightly out of reach all these years I lived in Paris.

During a casual coffee rendez-vous with a friend, I asked for recommendations for places to go for the weekend. My friend, Melina, recommended Marseille. She was planning on spending a few weeks there to visit friends and family in the region and offered to show me around during my short stay. With time on my side and a bit of a willingness to splurge this year, I decided to venture out to Marseille.

It should be noted that many people will say that Marseille is not the South of France. By South of France, most people are referring to Cannes, Saint Tropez, and the like. The South of France implies the posh and expensive places. The places neighboring Monaco inviting only the richest to enjoy. Marseille, by contrast, stands alone, unique in its own culture and ethnic diversity. Morocans, Alergians, Italians, Corsicans, and Tunisians have all called Marseille their home.

While my dad cooked dinner back home in LA, he often watched Anthony Bourdain’s Parts Unknown series. My dad would always say that Anthony had the best job in the world. Here was a man on TV who lived like the world was his playground. Always exploring, always discovering a new cuisine, a new culture. Like Anthony, my dad appreciated “hole in the wall” places and he respected Anthony for always trying to get the local perspective whether it be politics, culture, or dining rituals. If given the choice, my dad always preferred restaurants that locals frequented rather than the fanciest establishments. He wanted to get as close to home cooking as possible. Whatever it took to feel less like a tourist and more like a local without getting in the kitchen himself.

During Anthony Bourdain’s Parts Unknown series, he featured many different places in France including Marseille. Despite how much time has passed since he shot this episode, people I spoke to in Paris still have mixed perceptions of Marseille. Some called it “dangerous”, full of shootings and Arabs (as if being Arab in itself automatically makes you dangerous). Others call it a risky city to visit and to mind my things while I’m there. So I must admit that by the time I took my solo train to Marseille, I was feeling a bit nervous. But I told myself that if I could survive working in downtown LA in my twenties, I could manage to survive my partial solo trip to Marseille.

Day 1:

  • Check-into Airbnb in the 6th Arrondisment

  • Explore the Old Port

  • Visit Centre de la Vieille Charité

    • Featuring a free exhibition and cool summer events.

  • Sunset walk along the Marseille Cathedral

  • Solo Dinner at Zaÿ Zaÿ

Day 2:

Day 3:

  • Back to the beach for a quick dip

  • Œuvres Sensibles, Sarah Espeute, the coolest concept store. Only open until the end of the October.

  • Coffee at Lala Café

    • They also have a small vintage section inside that’s worth popping in for.

  • More shopping:

    • Herb Pharmacy Father Blaize

      • Picked up some of my favorite loose leaf teas here.

    • Maison Empereur

      • Got overwhelmed by the selection of homeware products and assortment of locally made soaps. Could easily spend two hours here.

  • Visit Parc Longchamp which includes free museums, Musée des Beaux-Arts and the Natural History Museum of Marseille

In general, I felt that Marseille was no more dangerous or risky than other parts of Paris or LA. Marseille is diverse with an identity all its own. It’s a city with its own beauty where those lucky enough to experience it can appreciate it not for its flawlessness but for its unique blending of cultures. The beaches, though rocky and somewhat hard to find, were gems unto themselves. Swimming in the warm, bright blue waters of the Mediterranean Sea was healing in a way. A relief from the traumatic heatwave that swept through France last month and a way for my LA soul, always missing the beach, to make peace with a home away from home. It made every part of my trip worthwhile, a dream come true.

As I rode the train back to Paris, my hair still salty from the quick dip in the sea, my tan lines blurring on my skin, I thought about my dad and Anthony Bourdain. I rewatched the Marseille episode during my stay and wondered how many of the restaurants Anthony visited still exist. I wondered if my dad and Anthony ever met somewhere on the other side would they still be talking about the same thing: the best hole in the wall places, the value of seeing the world unfiltered, raw, and unapologetic. Would they still be talking about places like Marseille, who are a bit “misunderstood” or even undervalued for their complexity, for the things we cannot understand in one lifetime but maybe the next.

Warmly from Marseille,

Kiana



PS: A million thanks to my tour guide and dear friend Melina for taking the time to show me around Marseille on such late notice. Dinner recs and beach spots were all thanks to her local POV. She makes cool content on IG, follow her here.

Kiana Sakamoto
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